Tuesday, September 17, 2013

September 4th I pulled into the bivi site at Smith Rock.  This is the first official time I have been on my own.  No friends, no connections, just Bodi and I.  I set up my tent grabbed the guidebook and my sketchbook then Bodi and I moseyed to cook area of camp.

There were a few people around as I began my search for climbing partners.  Of course this search was in my head at this point.  I hadn't made an effort to talk to anyone.
I continued to read and sketch then grabbed some food.  The cooking area was starting to fill up yet I still could not get myself to venture over and speak to anyone.  I was about to give up and head to bed.  I was so frustrated with myself.  Why did I find it so hard to simply say hello to a group of people?  I got up to throw some trash away and at a near picnic table were two girls.  I said "hi" as I walked past...guess what, they said "hi" back! haha all that stress and drama in my head for nothing.  I started a conversation and found out the one girl (Summer) would be here for two weeks and looking for climbing partners! I joined them for a beer and went climbing with them the next day. Although we only got one climb in before the rain ended our day it was enough to start the climbing partner friendship.
We met Abe and Alex who were also on solo trips.  Abe has been coming to Smith for awhile and seems to know any and all beta for the park.  Really Abe seems to know everything, but is also super generous and welcoming.  Alex left Colorado planning to have a 4 month adventure and has fallen in love with Smith.  She really just started climbing since we all met two weeks ago and has been crushing.  It is quite wonderful how one common factor can create great friendships.

 We have had great climbing days together and awesome rest days exploring Bend OR and enjoying Steel Head Falls. We had an amazing ice cold dip in this wonderful river. Great place with cliff jumping and clean water to relax near.




 Oh on the way to Bend I opened my email and read a message from Cozy Orange stating that Women's Adventure Magazine wanted to do a short featured online article on what I was doing.  How rad I thought!  I spent an hour being interviewed, sent some photos and you can check it out for yourself here:

http://www.womensadventuremagazine.com/extreme-outdoors/year-long-climbing-adventure/

Yesterday Summer, Alex, and I had a girls day at Smith where we just crushed! A full day of onsights and just pure sending! I know its kinda cheesy, but it was incredible.  Summer and I both hit a wall where we were afraid on lead really afraid of the fall.  Once you get above that bolt you grip harder, think more, and breath less which leads to a freak out. Your brain imagines that the bolt is 15 ft away giving a possible 30 foot fall.  Although the bolt probably isn't that far...well at Smith it might be, but it will be okay!  No matter what other people tell you, you have to find your head space on your own. Yesterday's full agenda and our favorite climb Phenix 10a cured our heads a bit.  I feel more confident and know if I just keep breathing I will be okay.


Our group will start to separate tomorrow with Summer heading back to Seattle tomorrow and Abe leaving on Friday, but I know I have made new friends for a lifetime and welcome the new partners I will meet at the bivi.  I think I will be here for another week I haven't fully decided. I just realized I really need a picture with them before we separate!

(can you see the highliner?)

Scott has also joined me for a weekend and we ventured into the lower gorge for some crack climbs and a bolted "Pure Palm" 11a stemming.  It was a blast and so nice to have him meet my new friends.





3 comments:

  1. Woohoo! Great pictures and awesome times!

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  2. Get it, Jaclyn! We don't know each other, but I'm psyched for you to be out adventuring anyway! Back to work for me tomorrow, but seriously thinking about starting a trip of my own in a few months. Maybe I'll see you out in the desert this winter :)

    Keep sending, keep writing!

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    Replies
    1. You should make your trip happen it was the best decision I have ever made! Hopefully our paths cross.

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