Year of Climbing and Adventure: July 2013

So I had left Squamish after a great trip with Scott. We both learned a lot about ourselves, and each other. He is my best friend and yet we can make each other so mad! But are still so grateful to have each other in our lives. I stayed in Portland for a day and then picked up my friend James from CO and we headed back up to Squamish.

The first day we bouldered and I got on lounge act the problem I had my eye on. It is super crimpy and tough, but did not feel totally out of reach. The next day we went and did a bunch of trad single pitches and some slab sport pitches. I led one 5.8 slab…I hate slab climbing so I was happy with my self for leading even if it was easy.

It was a great day and we even met an Australian girl who had studied at School of Mines in Golden CO this past year and was traveling before she had to go back. She joined us for a couple pitches. We went back to camp and met up with James' friends John and Kellia. These two are great people I had a blast hanging out and climbing with them and can’t wait to visit and climb with them in North Carolina.

We all climbed Diedre (6pitch) then we decided to climb Snake (another 6 pitches). John and Kellia headed up and then James and I headed up after. The second pitch had a sketchy polished unprotected traverse and unfortunately James took a 40 ft fall, which I caught as I was his belayer. It was a crazy fall, which I can still fully see happen in my head. Thankfully he got right back up and was not seriously injured. He repelled down to where I was then we both repelled to the bottom. He ended up having to get 30 stitches in his elbow, but ultimately he was very lucky. It made me realize I need to learn some rescue skills if I am going to be going on multi-pitch climbs. I’m so stoked I have a best friend who knows this stuff and is willing to teach me! Thanks Scott!

The rest of the week James could not climb due to the injury, but I did climb with John and Kellia. I sent the 10.c sport climb! So stoked about that. I also went on a 15 pitch multi-pitch with John and Kellia. We topped out the 1^st peak of the Chief.

Diedre (6 pitch 5.8) to

Boomstick (2pitch 5.6) to

the Squamish Buttress (7 pitch 5.6 to 10.c)

Such a great experience. We started climbing at 7:30 and ended at 5:00 with about a half hour we took to eat lunch. We got back to camp around 7:30 it was a full day! Right from Squamish I headed to Yosemite!

This was my first time to Yosemite and the Valley was very hot so we were in the meadows. I met my friend Robert in the spring when I was climbing at Joe’s Valley with my good friend Jesse. He was super generous and I met him in San Francisco then he drove to Yosemite. Yosemite is a beautiful place words cannot describe how beautiful. We arrived on Thursday and bouldered in the evening. I sent a 3 star V5 the stand start to cellulite eliminator. It was such a fun problem and I was so happy to finally send it. Then on Friday we got on some easy trad, but I was super sketched out for no reason and would not lead any of it. Although it was only two pitches and took forever due to a party ahead of us, which we had to wait for! Topping out the dome was fun and had beautiful views. I was so nervous to top out as these people were talking as if it was super sketchy when we were at the bottom. We got there, did it, and I realized it was totally fine! That took our whole day on Friday. Robert’s friends got in Friday night and Saturday we all bouldered together at puppy dome and had a blast. Then Sunday we were going to climb another easy trad climb and I was going to lead, but then once again we were stuck behind people taking forever. After waiting at the base of the climb for two hours we bailed and went bouldering, but the motivation was pretty low. It was still fun. We headed back to San Fransico I got to do some laundry and take a shower. I will head back to Portland today.

I need to climb more trad and feel more confident in it before I head back to Yosemite so I can lead harder grades and then I won’t get stuck behind super slow climbers. I have climbed 14 out of the 21 days so far in July and I still have a week left.

Again this month I have met new friends who have been very generous and welcoming and have also gotten to have the comfort of old friends and their generosity. I am very grateful and one day will get to return the generosity!

I can’t believe almost two months have gone bye. There is so much to do!

Stand Start Cellulite Eliminator V5 the Gunks in Tuolumne Meadows Yosemite

Stemming 5.7 could barely reach

5.10c lead...getting closer to 11s

John leading 10.c trad on Squamish Buttress

view from the 14th pitch of the 15 pitch climb

Top of peak 1 on the Chief!

Lounge Act V6

Lambert Dome Tuolumne Meadows climb to the top of that

The first peak of the chief I climbed that whole thing :)

swimming hole

fun v3

I have spent the past 6 days in Squamish B.C. It is absolutely beautiful. The climbing is so close and abundant. The variety is unreal. Great bouldering, trad, sport, and tall multi-pitch climbing available within 5mins! I was shut down on a 10c on lead only because I was scared. On top rope I ran up it not even getting pumped. I just need to get over the fear of falling. I hope I get myself to man up this next week that I am back there. I also hope to get more time bouldering only bouldered the one day and didn't get on the problem I really want to work. I did however lead my first 5.8 trad route...I am really starting to enjoy placing gear!
I also followed Scott up a 6 pitch climb and had the experience of having to pee on the side of the wall. HAHA It was quite the ordeal and experience. Thankfully I was with my best friend and he made it as simple as possible. I made sure not to pee on the route, but i'm sure those below could have done without witnessing the experience, but thats life. I followed up some 11c and 11.d routes without to much difficulty and had a blast.
Squamish is filled with a variety of climbers coming from all around the world. You are constantly hearing other languages and often trying to communicate with others who don't fully understand you and you don't fully understand them. I am stoked to head back up there tomorrow to get more done! I highly suggest visiting Squamish to everyone not just climbers!

My 5.7 lead on gear after it was cleaned

My first 5.8 lead on gear...check out how sewn up it is! :)

Placing gear

YAY!

Oh I also reached another goal.....

I have hated bananas all my life! The smell taste texture...students would go to eat one in my classroom and I'd tell them to get out I hated them so much. However, they are good for you and they are super cheap so over the last month and a half I have trained myself to like them. Well be okay with them this is the first banana I have ever eaten!