Rest of my time at Smith Rock

 The day after our girl's crushing day it was Summer's last day at the bivy.  This was also my 8th day in a row of climbing.  We decided to go out climbing and after one climb my body told me "no more!" Summer did one more climb and then we headed back to camp and enjoyed the rest of the day at Green Plow Coffee Shop in Redmond.

                                           (Summer, Me, Alex climbing at Smith)
The night before we met a guy who was touring on his bicycle and stopped at Smith after a flat tire.  He joined our little group and was stoked to learn about climbing, the culture, and community.  He was amazed about how people will take extended amounts of time to just climb.  Robert ended up buying a ton of food and cooking for all of us on Summer's last night.  He then pulled out his camera.  He said he really didn't know how to use it, so I asked him some questions to see what he really knew.  Basically he would put the camera on auto and take pictures, I cringed when I heard that!  I taught him some basics and also how to take night photos.  It was so fun to see someone get excited over something so basic in my mind.  It reminded me of why I enjoy teaching. Robert, Summer, Alex, and I ended up staying up late into the night playing around with different night exposures.

The next morning Summer left and I took a much needed rest day!  I did absolutely nothing but sat around and slept.  Oh I guess I knitted a little.  

The next day Abe and I went out climbing.  I still felt tired, but was down to climb.  We warmed up on a 10b, which I onsighted.  That made me feel like I still was in a good lead head mode so after one more 10a we headed to an 11b that I loved on top rope. I was committed to leading it.  The first two bolts I climbed well and was calm.  Then as I moved into the crux of the climb I began to breath less think more and the nerves started to act up.  I knew I could do all the moves with out falling or resting, but I could not get my head to agree. 

 I took at the first bolt of the crux to sort out my thoughts.  I forced myself to continue the climb. I made it through the next section to the second bolt of the crux. All I had left was a long left hand move to a small crimp, then a right hand crimp and up to a left hand small mono pocket. After that the crux would be over!  It took me a few attempts to actually get my body to move, but I finally committed and went for it.  It felt amazing once I hit the jug, I knew the rest of the climb would be easier and my brain would calm down.  I was so proud of myself for not giving up I pushed through the mental block and led a 5.11b!  This was the hardest climb outside I have ever led.  I had hoped by the end of my trip I would be comfortable leading 5.11.  A few weeks ago my mental lead head was so bad I didn't think that goal was achievable and now I can see that it is achievable.  I'm not there yet, but on my way!

The next day Abe left and our crew was separating.  I however, had met several other people to climb with and was having a blast.  Scott was also in town for the weekend leading a group of Nike employees it was so nice to have familiar faces around. 

On Monday I climbed with Kim in the morning, a new friend who I met through Abe.  She led her first 5.10!  When she came down from the climb she had a huge smile and I knew exactly what she was feeling!  We went back as she had to head to work.  My plan was then to just chill for the rest of the day, but I got roped into climbing in the afternoon with some guys from the bivy.  I top roped magic light which is a pumpy 5.11a without resting.  I had climbed this once before and had to rest twice.  The next time I am there I will lead magic light!  I was asked why I was leaving so soon and I could only respond because "I feel like its time to move on."  

Tuesday I woke up it had rained at night so I thought I was being smart by cooking breakfast and letting my tent dry.  After cooking it began to downpour and I ended up having to pack up my tent in the rain.  Luckily I had made some great friends who held a tarp up as I broke down my tent.

Passed snow on the way to Cali

I headed out to Humboldt CA will be here for a few days, climb the weekend and then head to Tahoe.  Hopefully it doesn't rain.

September 4th I pulled into the bivi site at Smith Rock.  This is the first official time I have been on my own.  No friends, no connections, just Bodi and I.  I set up my tent grabbed the guidebook and my sketchbook then Bodi and I moseyed to cook area of camp.

There were a few people around as I began my search for climbing partners.  Of course this search was in my head at this point.  I hadn't made an effort to talk to anyone.
I continued to read and sketch then grabbed some food.  The cooking area was starting to fill up yet I still could not get myself to venture over and speak to anyone.  I was about to give up and head to bed.  I was so frustrated with myself.  Why did I find it so hard to simply say hello to a group of people?  I got up to throw some trash away and at a near picnic table were two girls.  I said "hi" as I walked past...guess what, they said "hi" back! haha all that stress and drama in my head for nothing.  I started a conversation and found out the one girl (Summer) would be here for two weeks and looking for climbing partners! I joined them for a beer and went climbing with them the next day. Although we only got one climb in before the rain ended our day it was enough to start the climbing partner friendship.
We met Abe and Alex who were also on solo trips.  Abe has been coming to Smith for awhile and seems to know any and all beta for the park.  Really Abe seems to know everything, but is also super generous and welcoming.  Alex left Colorado planning to have a 4 month adventure and has fallen in love with Smith.  She really just started climbing since we all met two weeks ago and has been crushing.  It is quite wonderful how one common factor can create great friendships.

 We have had great climbing days together and awesome rest days exploring Bend OR and enjoying Steel Head Falls. We had an amazing ice cold dip in this wonderful river. Great place with cliff jumping and clean water to relax near.

 Oh on the way to Bend I opened my email and read a message from Cozy Orange stating that Women's Adventure Magazine wanted to do a short featured online article on what I was doing.  How rad I thought!  I spent an hour being interviewed, sent some photos and you can check it out for yourself here:

http://www.womensadventuremagazine.com/extreme-outdoors/year-long-climbing-adventure/

Yesterday Summer, Alex, and I had a girls day at Smith where we just crushed! A full day of onsights and just pure sending! I know its kinda cheesy, but it was incredible.  Summer and I both hit a wall where we were afraid on lead really afraid of the fall.  Once you get above that bolt you grip harder, think more, and breath less which leads to a freak out. Your brain imagines that the bolt is 15 ft away giving a possible 30 foot fall.  Although the bolt probably isn't that far...well at Smith it might be, but it will be okay!  No matter what other people tell you, you have to find your head space on your own. Yesterday's full agenda and our favorite climb Phenix 10a cured our heads a bit.  I feel more confident and know if I just keep breathing I will be okay.

Our group will start to separate tomorrow with Summer heading back to Seattle tomorrow and Abe leaving on Friday, but I know I have made new friends for a lifetime and welcome the new partners I will meet at the bivi.  I think I will be here for another week I haven't fully decided. I just realized I really need a picture with them before we separate!

(can you see the highliner?)

Scott has also joined me for a weekend and we ventured into the lower gorge for some crack climbs and a bolted "Pure Palm" 11a stemming.  It was a blast and so nice to have him meet my new friends.

Most Committing Adventure Yet

Scott sent a text to Jimmy and I about our annual climbing trip. (started an annual trip as of last year...) He said Leavenworth, WA alpine climb on Dragontail Peak called Serpentine.  14 pitches of 5.8 4 mile hike in and backpacking for 3 days. I had just finished a 15 pitch climb in Squamish where the hardest pitch was 10.c so I figured I was ready for this climb and responded "i'm in."

August 25th after Scott ran Hood to Coast we drove from Portland OR to Leavenworth WA.  Woke up on Monday went to the ranger station some how the cards were in our favor and we got the one permit to backpack in Colchuck.  We packed our backpacks for two nights and three days of backpacking and climbing.

 Our packs were probably around 35 to 40 pounds.  We hiked in 4.2 miles to Colchuck Lake in the Wilderness of WA and set up camp. Camp was our sleeping pads, bivy sacks, and a tarp over head.    

The next morning we got up at 5:30 am ate breakfast and began the hike to the base of Dragontail Peak.  The hike was up a steep loose talus field and across a ridge to the base of our route called Serpentine.  

We began climbing at 8:00 am.  Originally we were going to climb as a party of three, and below us friends were going to climb as a party of four.  Three of our friends backed out after the hike to the base, as the weather was pretty poor.  You could only see a third of the climb as the clouds had socked in the large granite face. 

We then began climbing in pairs.  We rock climbed for 12 hrs straight.  Literally the leader would climb and belay the second climber up we would exchange gear and begin climbing the next pitch. There were times where the second climber had to take out the anchor and begin climbing while the lead climber was still climbing due to the 70-meter rope not being long enough.  Often we would find ourselves putting on coats at the belay and taking them off to climb as the weather was constantly changing.  My climbing partners all had on quick dry clothing and Merino wool clothing as a base layer.  I had on my Cozy Orange Libra Tank and Aries Long sleeve.  It would get wet with sweat, but dried quickly allowing my body to stay at a comfortable temperature.  It never became bulky under my warmer layers and raincoat and stayed comfortable therefore never restricting my movement.

The entire climb I was on edge as we were rained on, fearing a thunderstorm, trying to avoid pulling off loose rock, which could injure, kill, or cut our rope at any moment.  

The most trying time was on a section with consistent loose rock.  Scott was leading a pitch Jimmy was belaying him, my climbing partner John had just climbed the pitch below and was belaying me as I climbed.  Scott stepped on a rock thinking it was solid and as he moved off it, the rock fell, he immediately began to scream “rock” as it fell down directly above us.  We all stopped and moved as close to the rock face as possible.  Jimmy and John were about 40 feet above me.  I heard the rock pass them and they shouted out that they were okay.  I then sucked in even tighter to the rock and waited for the loose rock to pass me.  I heard it crash into the wall and bounce over me and with a sigh of relief I yelled up “i’m okay” and began to continue my climb up.

 

At some point we became really off route and did not summit until 7:30pm.  When we finally reached the summit the sky opened up on us and began pouring rain.  After breaking out our rain gear and changed from climbing shoes to approach shoes we began our hike down.  Our goal was to cross the glacier and make it to the start of Aasgard Pass before dark. 

John separated from the rest of us in search of the trailhead.  A cairn appeared and Scott, Jimmy, and I headed down the trail figuring it was the start of Aasgard pass.  Shortly after starting our decent we heard someone yelling.  We thought it was John, but it was difficult to decipher whether it was coming from above or below us.  We tried to yell back, but really could not understand anything being said.  We continued down the path turned a corner and John’s headlamp jumped out.  We shouted with joy that we were all safe and together again.  However, he was on the opposite side of a large rushing stream.  John told us there was a crossing about 25 feet above where we were.  With no trail going up, all of the rocks were wet and slick, but we had to climb un-roped to be on the correct trail.  It was unnerving, but we all made it up and across the rushing water.  Our hike continued down a large steep talus field and we finally returned to camp at 11:15 pm.  Our three friends who decided not to climb had lots of filtered water waiting for us and cooked us dinner!  They were able to watch our headlamps descend the pass and gauge when we would arrive back at camp.  We had planned on the climb taking us about 9 hours and figured we would be back at camp around 8:00 pm with the hike down.  In the end we had 2000 ft elevation gain from the trailhead to our camp (4.2 miles) 1500 ft elevation gain in the hike from camp to the base of our climb (not sure the hiking mileage) and 2000ft elevation gain of vertical rock climbing and then had to descend the same amount.

There were several times during the climb and descent the thought of why I didn’t turn around when our other three friends did crossed my mind.  I still cannot answer that question, but I can say I am very happy with the decision to participate in an adventure unlike any I had experienced prior.  We all have our perceived limits.  However, in reality we are capable of much more it is just a matter of putting fear aside and focusing on the task at hand.

Here are some more awesome photos...wish I had more of the climb, but I was to focused on climbing to take pictures.

Aasgurd Pass...what we hiked out in the dark

View from the base of the climb

Mountain Goat Momma and Baby

After we hiked out Scott's old boss and good friend from the Forest Service invited us over for a BBQ.  The next day we went wine tasting while waiting out the rain. We then headed back to the mountains for some bouldering.  We continued to climb for 4 more days before heading back to Portland.  I will be leaving Portland tomorrow morning heading to Smith Rock for two weeks and then starting to head east slowly with long stops in Tahoe, Indian Creek, Joe's Valley....

Good Eats Camping