The night before we met a guy who was touring on his bicycle and stopped at Smith after a flat tire. He joined our little group and was stoked to learn about climbing, the culture, and community. He was amazed about how people will take extended amounts of time to just climb. Robert ended up buying a ton of food and cooking for all of us on Summer's last night. He then pulled out his camera. He said he really didn't know how to use it, so I asked him some questions to see what he really knew. Basically he would put the camera on auto and take pictures, I cringed when I heard that! I taught him some basics and also how to take night photos. It was so fun to see someone get excited over something so basic in my mind. It reminded me of why I enjoy teaching. Robert, Summer, Alex, and I ended up staying up late into the night playing around with different night exposures.
The next morning Summer left and I took a much needed rest day! I did absolutely nothing but sat around and slept. Oh I guess I knitted a little.
The next day Abe and I went out climbing. I still felt tired, but was down to climb. We warmed up on a 10b, which I onsighted. That made me feel like I still was in a good lead head mode so after one more 10a we headed to an 11b that I loved on top rope. I was committed to leading it. The first two bolts I climbed well and was calm. Then as I moved into the crux of the climb I began to breath less think more and the nerves started to act up. I knew I could do all the moves with out falling or resting, but I could not get my head to agree.
I took at the first bolt of the crux to sort out my thoughts. I forced myself to continue the climb. I made it through the next section to the second bolt of the crux. All I had left was a long left hand move to a small crimp, then a right hand crimp and up to a left hand small mono pocket. After that the crux would be over! It took me a few attempts to actually get my body to move, but I finally committed and went for it. It felt amazing once I hit the jug, I knew the rest of the climb would be easier and my brain would calm down. I was so proud of myself for not giving up I pushed through the mental block and led a 5.11b! This was the hardest climb outside I have ever led. I had hoped by the end of my trip I would be comfortable leading 5.11. A few weeks ago my mental lead head was so bad I didn't think that goal was achievable and now I can see that it is achievable. I'm not there yet, but on my way!
The next day Abe left and our crew was separating. I however, had met several other people to climb with and was having a blast. Scott was also in town for the weekend leading a group of Nike employees it was so nice to have familiar faces around.
On Monday I climbed with Kim in the morning, a new friend who I met through Abe. She led her first 5.10! When she came down from the climb she had a huge smile and I knew exactly what she was feeling! We went back as she had to head to work. My plan was then to just chill for the rest of the day, but I got roped into climbing in the afternoon with some guys from the bivy. I top roped magic light which is a pumpy 5.11a without resting. I had climbed this once before and had to rest twice. The next time I am there I will lead magic light! I was asked why I was leaving so soon and I could only respond because "I feel like its time to move on."
Tuesday I woke up it had rained at night so I thought I was being smart by cooking breakfast and letting my tent dry. After cooking it began to downpour and I ended up having to pack up my tent in the rain. Luckily I had made some great friends who held a tarp up as I broke down my tent.
Passed snow on the way to Cali
I headed out to Humboldt CA will be here for a few days, climb the weekend and then head to Tahoe. Hopefully it doesn't rain.
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