So I had left Squamish after a great trip with Scott. We both
learned a lot about ourselves, and each other. He is my best friend and
yet we can make each other so mad! But are still so grateful to have each other
in our lives. I stayed in Portland for a day and then picked up my friend
James from CO and we headed back up to Squamish.
The first day we bouldered and I got on lounge act the problem I had my
eye on. It is super crimpy and tough, but did not feel totally out of
reach. The next day we went and did a bunch of trad single pitches and
some slab sport pitches. I led one 5.8 slab…I hate slab climbing so I was
happy with my self for leading even if it was easy.
It was a great day and we even met an Australian girl who had studied at
School of Mines in Golden CO this past year and was traveling before she had to
go back. She joined us for a couple pitches. We went back to camp and met
up with James' friends John and Kellia. These two are great people I had
a blast hanging out and climbing with them and can’t wait to visit and climb
with them in North Carolina.
We all climbed Diedre (6pitch) then we decided to climb Snake (another 6
pitches). John and Kellia headed
up and then James and I headed up after.
The second pitch had a sketchy polished unprotected traverse and
unfortunately James took a 40 ft fall, which I caught as I was his belayer. It was a crazy fall, which I can still
fully see happen in my head. Thankfully
he got right back up and was not seriously injured. He repelled down to where I
was then we both repelled to the bottom.
He ended up having to get 30 stitches in his elbow, but ultimately he
was very lucky. It made me realize
I need to learn some rescue skills if I am going to be going on multi-pitch
climbs. I’m so stoked I have a
best friend who knows this stuff and is willing to teach me! Thanks Scott!
The rest of the week James could not climb due to the injury, but I did
climb with John and Kellia. I sent
the 10.c sport climb! So stoked about that. I also went on a 15 pitch multi-pitch with John and
Kellia. We topped out the 1st
peak of the Chief.
Diedre (6 pitch 5.8) to
Boomstick (2pitch 5.6) to
the Squamish Buttress (7 pitch 5.6 to 10.c)
Such a great experience. We
started climbing at 7:30 and ended at 5:00 with about a half hour we took to
eat lunch. We got back to camp
around 7:30 it was a full day!
Right from Squamish I headed to Yosemite!
This was my first time to Yosemite and the Valley was very hot so we
were in the meadows. I met
my friend Robert in the spring when I was climbing at Joe’s Valley with my good
friend Jesse. He was super
generous and I met him in San Francisco then he drove to Yosemite. Yosemite is a beautiful place words
cannot describe how beautiful. We arrived on Thursday and bouldered in the
evening. I sent a 3 star V5 the
stand start to cellulite eliminator.
It was such a fun problem and I was so happy to finally send it. Then on Friday we got on some easy
trad, but I was super sketched out for no reason and would not lead any of
it. Although it was only two
pitches and took forever due to a party ahead of us, which we had to wait
for! Topping out the dome was fun
and had beautiful views. I was so
nervous to top out as these people were talking as if it was super sketchy when
we were at the bottom. We got
there, did it, and I realized it was totally fine! That took our whole day on Friday. Robert’s friends got in Friday night and Saturday we all
bouldered together at puppy dome and had a blast. Then Sunday we were going to climb another easy trad climb
and I was going to lead, but then once again we were stuck behind people taking
forever. After waiting at the base of the climb for two hours we bailed and
went bouldering, but the motivation was pretty low. It was still fun.
We headed back to San Fransico I got to do some laundry and take a
shower. I will head back to
Portland today.
I need to climb more trad and feel more confident in it before I head
back to Yosemite so I can lead harder grades and then I won’t get stuck behind
super slow climbers. I have
climbed 14 out of the 21 days so far in July and I still have a week left.
Again this month I have met new friends who have been very generous and
welcoming and have also gotten to have the comfort of old friends and their
generosity. I am very grateful and
one day will get to return the generosity!
I can’t believe almost two months have gone bye. There is so much to do!
Stand Start Cellulite Eliminator V5 the Gunks in Tuolumne Meadows Yosemite
Stemming 5.7 could barely reach
5.10c lead...getting closer to 11s
John leading 10.c trad on Squamish Buttress
view from the 14th pitch of the 15 pitch climb
Top of peak 1 on the Chief!
Lounge Act V6
Lambert Dome Tuolumne Meadows climb to the top of that
The first peak of the chief I climbed that whole thing :)
swimming hole
fun v3
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